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Bolivian Butterfly Fact
Sheet
The “Bolivian Butterfly”, “Mikrogeophagus altispinosus”, is also known as the “Bolivian Ram”,
“Altispinosus”, “Bolivian Ram”, “Hifin Ram”, “Ruby Crown Cichlid”, “Crown Ruby
Cichlid” and “Ruby Clown Cichlid”. It is
similar to the Blue Ram, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, and some common
names are used for both species, causing some confusion.
They are South American dwarf cichlids.
Origin
The Bolivian Butterfly is native to Brazil and Bolivia. It is found in the Mamoré
River basin in Bolivia, and the Guaporé
River in Brazil
and Bolivia,
the Igarape river at Guarjara-Mirim and on its flood plains below Todos
Santos. These rivers are tributaries of
the Amazon. It is not usually found in
the fast flowing parts of these rivers, but rather in slow streams, under river
banks and in ponds.
Length and Longevity
The male Bolivian Butterfly can grow to 10 centimetres (4
inches) while the female’s maximum length is a little less and they do not
usually exceed 7 centimetres (2.75 inches in length. They can live for 5 years.
Water Conditions
The Bolivian Butterfly is more accommodating in its water
parameter preferences than the Blue Ram.
The ideal water is soft and neutral or slightly acidic. A pH of 6-7.5 and a maximum general hardness
of 12 degrees are good. However, it seems
more important that the water parameters are stable than what their exact
values are; Bolivian Butterflies have been kept very successfully with a pH as
high as 8.
It is also more important that the water be clean than its exact
level of pH or hardness; this fish is intolerant of Ammonia and Nitrites and these
two toxic pollutants should be zero. The
Nitrate level should also be kept low, and a maximum nitrate level of 20 parts
per million is suggested. Good
filtration in necessary, but avoid having turbulent water in the whole of the
aquarium.
This fish should be kept in a very well planted aquarium but
some open water for swimming should be provided.
If the plants grow well they will be removing the excess
nitrates. Frequent partial water changes
are also suggested.
This fish is one of the ones that will often attempt to
breed in a community aquarium, and will sometimes succeed in raising a few
babies despite the attempts of the other fish to eat them. Their aggression increases a bit when
breeding and trying to protect their eggs and babies. Two or more corners of the aquarium can be
set up with a flat rock, and natural protection in the form of rocks etc to
provide a defensible territory for the fish if they attempt to breed.
Substrate
In the wild they are usually found in places with sandy
bottoms, so sand is the obvious substrate to use. Some stones and aquarium wood should also be
present. A dark coloured substrate
combined with a low level of light seems to intensify the colours of this
fish. However, the plants need
sufficient light to grow, so it is probably better to reduce the amount of
light reaching the bottom of the tank by using plants, including floating ones,
to shade the bottom. This is what would
happen in the wild.
Temperature
The Bolivian Butterfly is a tropical fish and needs a heated
aquarium. A temperature range of between
23 and 28 degrees C (between 73 and 82 degrees F) is suitable for keeping this
fish although it will survive outside this temperature range.
Diseases
The Bolivian Butterfly is susceptible to the normal diseases
that aquarium fish get, and some people have reported that they are
particularly susceptible to Ick (White Spot).
I have never had an outbreak of Ick on my Bolivian Butterflies, but this
is because I do not tolerate this parasite in any of my tanks. If your Bolivian Butterflies get Ick, I
suggest increasing the water temperature to at least 30 degrees C (86
degrees F) for at least 5 days.) If you
only increase the temperature to 28 degrees C (82 degrees F), rather than
getting rid of the parasite you are liable to simply increase the speed it goes
through its life cycle and make the infestation worse much faster. When the water temperature is increased, good
aeration is particularly important.
Stress Colours
When this fish is stressed, 6 indistinct cross bars appear
on its body.
Food
The Bolivian Butterfly is an easily fed omnivore. Their preferred feeding zone is the bottom of
the tank where they will take food from the surface and top layers of the sand
or gravel of the aquarium, often taking the sand into their mouths and sifting
out any edible bits. Their mouth is well
adapted to do this. However, they will also
eat at the surface of the water, and happily take food in midwater.
As with nearly all animals, the Bolivian Butterfly needs a
variety of food. A good quality tropical
fish flake can be used occasionally, but it needs to be supplemented with live
or frozen food such as Daphnia, mosquito larvae, blood worms and brine shrimp. Some people prefer to use a cichlid pellet as the basis of their diet rather that a general tropical fish food.
Companions
The Bolivian Butterfly is slightly more aggressive that the
Blue Ram, but I still definitely class them as community fish. They may not be safe companions for the
smallest tetras and Danios, but can be kept without problems with most
community fish, including other types of peaceful dwarf cichlids.
This fish is not suitable as a companion for aggressive fish.
In the wild there is evidence that this fish is often found
by itself rather than with a group of its own species, and they mainly come
together for breeding. But in an
aquarium a group of this species does seem to swim together, especially when
they are young, and they look very nice.
If keeping a group, it is better to have more females than males.
Fighting
With more than one male in the tank, some minor fighting may
occur which may include mouth wrestling.
Sexing
The Male is larger than the female and has more pointed dorsal
and tail fins. He is also more
colourful. In breeding condition, the
colours of both sexes are stunning in their brightness, but the male’s colours
are generally brighter. The female gets
plumper when loaded with eggs.
Anal Fin
The anal fin of the male is more pointed with more obvious
angles and is squarer than the longer more rounded anal fin of the female.
Breeding Tube
Just in front of the anal fin is a little bump. In the male it is smaller and more pointed
than in the female whose breeding tube bump is larger and more rounded. The actual breeding tube emerges when the
pair is almost ready to breed.
Water Conditions
This fish may decide to breed with any water parameters, but
seems more likely to with a temperature of about 28 degrees C (86 degrees F),
and soft slightly acidic, or neutral, water.
This fish will often attempt to breed in a community
aquarium and will sometimes succeed.
They are more likely to get a larger number of fry surviving in a
specially set up breeding tank. This is
a less natural way of breeding than in with other fish.
This fish needs to form pairs by itself and our attempts at
selecting suitable mates will not always meet with the approval of the
fish. The usual way of getting one or
more pairs is to start off with a group of young Bolivian Butterflies, and let
them sort themselves out into pairs.
Monogamy
They breed in pairs, not in groups, and display a high level
of monogamy, often bonding into pairs for life.
Open Spawners
The Bolivian Butterfly spawns on a surface on the open, choosing
a flat rock or pebble, or sometimes a large flat leaf. This is in contrast to the types of fish that
prefer to spawn in caves.
Territorial
The pair of fish will choose and defend a territory in the
tank. In this territory they will choose
a nesting site which is often a flat stone.
Both prospective parents clean the surface of the nesting site, and
often also excavate several shallow pits in the sand or gravel.
Display
The male will display his gorgeous colours to the female. While the preparations are proceeding the
male becomes more aggressive than usual to other fish in the aquarium. The male and female will swim alongside each
other, displaying their increasingly bright colours. The courtship may last a few days.
Trials
The female will often do a few trial runs over the nesting
site while the male watches her. At this
time both fish will have protruded their breeding tubes. The female’s tube is thicker than male’s and
is blunt while the thinner tube of the male is pointed
Spawning
The female lays her light grey eggs a few at a time. She often does this in a pattern on the
nesting site. Sometimes she might lay
them in straight lines with the male moving in to fertilize each row after it
is laid. Other females might lay the
eggs in a circle
The spawning may take an hour or more, and usually between
50 and 300 eggs are laid.
Guarding
The female takes her station over the eggs guarding them and
also fanning them with one pectoral fin.
The male spends most of his time guarding their territory, but may
relieve the female for short periods.
Hatching
The eggs hatch faster at higher temperatures, but they
usually take about 48 hours to hatch.
Females have been observed helping their babies to get out of the eggs.
At this stage the babies are still living on the food
reserves of the eggs and are not free swimming.
Transfer
The female takes the babies into her mouth and transfers
them to one of the pits that the couple prepared earlier.
She may transfer the babies several times to different pits.
Free Swimming
It takes between 5 and 8 more days for the fry to become
free swimming.
The fry are very active, and will follow the parents, often
in a tight school. They are very
vulnerable to predation by other fish in the tank.
As soon as they are free swimming, the fry are big enough to
eat newly hatched brine shrimp. Other
suitable foods include micro worms, infusoria and commercial fry foods, both
the dry ones and the liquid sorts.
In six months the babies should be about 4 centimetres (1.5
inches) long.
Clean Water
The fry are particularly susceptible to dirty water, and
care must be taken to keep it clean. Very
frequent partial water changes should be done.
Ammonia and nitrites are very poisonous to the young fish, and nitrates
will severely slow their growth if allowed to get above about 20 ppm.
Learning
The whole process of spawning and raising babies is
complicated for this fish and they usually do not get it completely right the
first time and have to start again with another batch of eggs. They seem to improve considerably with
practice. If eggs are infertile they
will turn white.
Conservation Status
Mikrogeophagus altispinosus has not been evaluated for the
UICN Redlist, but there is no reason to think its existence is threatened in
the wild.
Scientific Name
The accepted name of this species is Mikrogeophagus
altispinosus (Haseman, 1911.) Other
names that have been used include Crenicara
altispinosa (Haseman, 1911),Microgeophagus
altispinosus (Haseman,
1911) and Papiliochromis
altispinosus (Haseman,
1911.)
Common Names
In German, the Bolivian Butterfly is called Der “Bolivianische
Schmetterlingsbuntbarsch”, in Denmark and Norway it is “Boliviansk
sommerfuglecichlide”, in Finland it is “Rusokirjoahven” in Poland it is “Pielęgniczka
boliwijska”, in Thialand it is “ปลาหมอแคระแรมโบลิเวีย”
and in China it is either “高棘小噬土丽鲷"
or “高棘小噬土麗鯛”.
Pest Fish
As with any animal, normal precautions should be taken to
prevent this fish getting into ecosystems it is not native to.
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